Handles!
If you remember from the first part of the tutorial, I modified the width and length of the handles based off of another tutorial that I had read. This makes it possible to put the bag over your shoulder. The pattern calls for the fabric and Peltex to be cut 48 inches in length, but for J’s bag, I’m using 56 inches. I’ve also increased with width of the fabric to 4 inches (pattern calls for 3), and the width of the Peltex to 1 (from 7/8ths).
The handles are pretty easy to put together, and the pattern instructions do a really good job of explaining how to fold the fabric in half, fold the ends in, etc.
Snap Modification
Once the handles are made, the pattern instructs how to put together the main large panels. It’s here that my next modification is done.
After putting the Peltex and the interfacing on the main panel, I added the second half of the magnetic snap to the main panel. I’m not a fan of making things like this overly complicated, so I employed a little of the “craftiness” that I used on my first bag.
I already have a snap attached to the outside pocket, so I took the other half of the snap and put it on the first. Making sure the prongs are situated correctly (it bugs me if the square of the snaps aren’t matching), I then lined up the bottom of the pocket with the bottom of the panel. With the sides and bottom aligned, I pushed the snap pretty hard into the fabric, in order to make indentations in the large panel.
Next, I took my super sharp scissors and carefully cut two small slits where those indentations are. I’ve pressed hard enough, also, to put indentations in the Peltex and interfacing behind. This allows me to very, very carefully cut small holes through the interfacing and a bit of the Peltex. Once that was done, I detached the unsecured snap, and pushed the prongs through the fabric, Peltex and interfacing and secured it into the panel.
Pocket and Panel Assembly
Now, back to the pattern instructions, which is to attach the handles. Again, this is pretty easy and the pattern instructions are clear.
Basting the outside pocket to the main panel was pretty easy, given the snap that helped to keep the pocket in place.
For the cording, I tend to turn the speed of my sewing machine down a bit, just so that it doesn’t run away from me. Going slow, as the pattern suggests, really helps out here, especially around the corners and over the pocket cording. Make sure to fold the handles into the pockets before sewing the cording, as well!
Top Panel and Zipper
Zippers and I… we have a history. I’ve found easy ways of making bags that have zippers, but those ways will not work with this bag. At least, not in any way that I’ve found. Alas, this zipper must be attached the proper way. 🙂
Again, the pattern instructions are pretty clear here, so I won’t add more.
Once the zipper has been attached, you’re told that it’s time to assemble the side pockets. It is possible to do another modification here, if you like. For my first bag, I thought that perhaps the handles I’d lengthened wouldn’t be long enough, so I decided that I needed to add a way to attach a long strap. I don’t have pictures, so you’ll have to bear with me, and imagine it for yourselves.
I had some 1 inch (or so) wide webbing from a different project that I cut to be about 3 inches long. I melted the ends so that they wouldn’t unravel, and slipped a metal d-ring on the webbing, then folded it in half, lining up the two raw edges. I sewed it shut, then placed it in the center of the end of the top panel. It is possible to just pin it in place, and let the attachment of the top panel to the bottom panel secure it in place, but since I tend to over pack, I thought it better to go ahead and sew an X over the webbing to attach it to the top panel at this point. Once you get to the point of attaching the side pockets to the top panel, you’ll go over this webbing again, securing it even more.
I’ve decided not to do this for J’s bag, but may do it for T’s. I’ll add pictures here if I do, but it may be a long time before that happens!