Lining Modifications

I like having pockets on the inside of my bag to make organization a little easier.  If you remember, I cut out additional large pockets in both the external and interior fabric for this purpose.  I’ll be using the external fabric as the exterior of the interior pocket, and the lining fabric for the lining of it.  I also cut out additional interfacing to make the pockets have a little more structure.

I followed the basic instructions for putting the outside pockets together, with the exception of the Peltex.  I just didn’t feel it was necessary, and I wanted a little more give on the inside.  I also refrained from putting snaps here as well.

I did, however, make sure I included the top stitching, only because I really like how sharp it looks.

Once I created the pockets, I basted them to the large lining panels to hold them in place.  I also decided to divide one of the pockets in half.

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Lining Assembly

A lot of the steps are repeated to put the lining together, so it should be pretty easy this time around.  The only difference is the fact that the seam allowance has been increased to 1 inch for the top panel, and 3/4″ for the assembly of the top and bottom panels, and the large panels to the top and bottom panel assembly.

These changes mean that some of the excess fabric is taken up.  I would suggest carefully trimming these seam allowances once you’ve put these together, in order to reduce the bulk between the exterior and interior fabrics.

You may also notice a little more difficulty easing the seam around the curves at the top of the main panels and top panel.  This is expected because of the increased seam allowance used.  Still, be careful that you’re not accidentally folding or sewing something you’re not wanting to.

Final Assembly

I always, ALWAYS forget that the end of the project, even if it’s just a couple steps, takes a lot longer than I anticipate.  The same goes for this bag.  If only because I’m trying to find a way out of doing the hand stitching.

This time, I added in the luggage feet.  I only attached them through the exterior, so that I could lessen the likelihood of fraying the interior, and of catching on any clothing or items within the bag (the false bottom would block the latter from happening, but better to be safe than sorry).  I measured approximately 3 inches in from each end of the bag, and one inch in from the piping seam on each side.  This gave me feet that were mostly even across the bottom.  They’re a little hard to see in the picture, and if I do it again, I might look for larger feet.

Next, it was time to put the lining in.  The pattern really, really wants you hand sew a few times within the bag to attach the bottom of the lining to the bottom of the exterior, and do the same up along the side.  But… I have significant trouble doing that.  Instead, I maneuver the bag, with the lining and exterior placed, so that I can do a wide zig zag stitch, with a short stitch length, on both short ends of the bag.

The lining was a little droopy as well, so I had to figure out what to do there.  Again, hand sewing and I were not getting along, so I had to use a bit of my engineering to work it out.  Stitching in the ditch, where the large outside pocket meets the piping seemed to be just the place.  Repeating this at each of the four junctions was just the trick.  It pulled the lining up where it was supposed to be, and kept the inside pockets from drooping open (something I wish I had figured out for my first bag…).

Finally, it was time to attach the top panels of the lining to the top panels of the exterior.  Again, the pattern requests that hand sewing is used.  Instead, I pinned the panels together, and very, very slowly stitched over the zipper seam in the exterior panels.  Going slow is required, as you want to make every effort to make it look like it is one single, seam.  I was mostly successful here, but lost a bit of my way on the second seam.

Unfortunately, because the zipper extends so low along the sides, my machine was unable to get all the way to the end.  Alas, I could not get away from hand sewing here, so I slip stitched my way to the ends, making sure that there was little to no hole between the lining and the exterior.

Last but not least is the false bottom panel.  There is no huge trick here, though again, I avoided the hand sewing of the open end.  Call me lazy, if you like.  But who’s really going to notice it?

And finally, the bag is done!  I’ll be either sending it to her or taking it down the next time we go to visit J, D1 and my nephew.  Therefore, the only pictures I’m going to post of it are here.  No matter how much I want to get on Facebook to jump for joy that this bag is done!

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So.  A somewhat difficult bag is complete.  Here’s what I’ve learned this second time through:

• Buy more of the Peltex and fusible interfacing than you think you need.
• When the pattern says to be patient and go slow, DO IT.
• Only mark the fabric with a removable medium.  Otherwise, make sure you have a Tide pen handy.
• Take as much time as needed.  This is not a bag that can be done in a day, so don’t try.

July 10, 2016 Edit – A couple notes after making the bag for the third time.

• Don’t be afraid of using more than two fabrics – one for the outside, one for the lining, and one for the piping and handles.  It’s okay to get creative here.
• If adding internal pockets, consider making one of them elasticized.  This will stop it from flopping open on its own.
  • Make sure to hand sew the lining to the exterior at the location of the elastic, so that it stays put.
  • Try to make sure that the elastic isn’t too short – if it is, it’ll pull the bag out of shape.  I used 8 1/2″ of elastic in this one, but I’ll probably up it to 10″ in the next.